BINDING & STITCHING

Needle & Thread

A blunt-tipped needle and waxed linen thread: the joint that holds a book together.

4Binding stage Rank 14 of 28
Line drawing of a needle & thread
Line drawing
Specification
Needle size16–20, blunt tapestry type
Needle length38–50 mm
ThreadLinen, 18/3 or 25/3
WaxBeeswax block
Thread per sectionAbout 2.5 × the spine height
Stations5–7 for an octavo
TensionFirm enough to hold, loose enough to close
KnotA weaver’s knot or a simple overhand, inside the section
Working parameters
ThreadLinen 18/3 (about 0.5 mm)
NeedleBlunt, size 18
Suitable stockAll paper sections
ProcessesSection sewing, Coptic, long stitch, kettle stitch
Compatible materialsPaper, vellum, leather at the joint
Thread length per section2.5 × spine height, plus 120 mm
Breaking strainAbout 4 kg for 18/3 linen, well above what a book needs
ArchivalLinen is stable and acid-free

There is a simulator for this. Bindery Simulator runs the same relationships in 3D, so you can change a number and watch what it does to the result.

Open Bindery Simulator
Overview

Bookbinding needles are blunt. A sharp needle splits the paper fibres; a blunt one finds the hole the awl made and follows it. The thread is linen, usually 18/3, and it is waxed with beeswax before use so it does not twist, fray, or catch on the paper.

Thread thickness is matched to the section. Too thick and the sections cannot close; too thin and the thread cuts into the paper at each station. For a standard octavo in 100 gsm paper, 18/3 linen is about right.

4Binding: Folding, sewing, gluing and casing in.

Safety

Before you use itWaxed thread cuts fingers when it is pulled tight. Pull with the thread over the side of the hand, not across the palm.
Before you use itNeedles go astray. Count them back into the packet at the end of every session.

Using it well

  • Wax the thread by pulling it across a block of beeswax two or three times. Waxed thread does not kink, and a kinked thread is what tears a section.
  • Do not knot at the start of a section. Sew the first two sections together and tie off in the middle of the third, where the knot is hidden and cannot pull through.
  • Keep the tension even by feel, section to section. A section sewn tighter than its neighbours pulls the text block out of square.

What it works with

Papers and substrates

  • All paper sections

Type and fonts

  • Not applicable

Processes

  • Coptic sewing
  • Long stitch
  • Kettle stitch
  • Case binding
  • Repair